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“… The Oka Plateau is like Tibet in miniature…” S.V.

Obruchev Fate threw me three times onto the tourist trails of the Oka mountain. Popular routes started right from the outskirts of the regional center Orlik and led to the Valley of Volcanoes, to the mineral springs at Khoito-Gol, Zhoigan, Topographers Peak, Mount Munku-Sardyk, lakes Shutkhulai-Nur and Dozor-Nur on the Tissa River. In the summer, these places are visited by dozens of tourist groups from different parts of Russia and abroad. Stanislav Konstantinenko and I chose a simple route this time: to the Khoito-Gol mineral springs.

The only serious obstacle on the way could be the Hadarus River during the rainy season. But the weather was favorable to us. Two days later we were at Khoyto-Gol. From here we made several radial excursions, and in between took healing baths with water temperatures up to +33 degrees.

People left many words of gratitude here after experiencing the healing effects of the springs. Let’s join them… As we age, we remember the past more and more often. Many times I had to get on a hiking trail and safely complete the intended route.

This was usually facilitated by careful preparation for the trip, as well as the wonderful sunny days that fell to our lot and low water in the rivers through which we had to cross. But I realized for myself a long time ago that most often the success of a trip depends on the goodwill and sincere readiness to help on the part of shift truck drivers, geologists, hunters and shepherds. It is impossible to list the names of all the kind people that we have met along the way over the years. It was the same this time.

At the Khoito-Gol mineral springs we met a family of local residents, the Magdagaevs — Mikhail and Ulyana — from the village of Sayany. These turned out to be wonderful people who grew up in these parts. During a short conversation, they taught us how to brew real Buryat tea — zuturaan sai, just what a tourist needs: you can drink it in the morning and be full until the evening. Mikhail also shared the secret of preparing meat for long-term storage in camp conditions.

Another time he treated us to caught fish. The grayling fish soup, cooked over a fire, was simply superb. One day we went together to a lake in the upper reaches of the Khoito-Gol River. True, Mikhail rode a horse, and we walked.

He showed us an arshan on the far shore of the lake and treated us to crystal water from it. These places cannot be called taiga wilderness, but fresh bear tracks on the trail were encountered very often. Apparently, the bear also liked to walk along the dirt path, instead of breaking through a windfall. Above the lake there are wild garlic plantations.

The time for its collection had just arrived, and we could not miss this opportunity. We had time, and we started collecting wild garlic, which we salted upon returning to camp. Wild garlic and rhubarb have significantly diversified our menu. These days, in the Khoito-Gol area, a team of forestry workers carried out forest management work.

We met them. Knowing the local conditions very well, they spoke with satisfaction and pride about the power of healing springs and shared their experiences of taiga life. Their advice will still be useful to us. The name of the former director of the forestry enterprise, Mikhail Nikolaevich Vityazev, was mentioned in the conversation.

We are convinced that the people’s memory of a good person lives long. It was on his initiative and with his hands that a park was founded thirty-five years ago in the center of the village of Orlik. Now there is Victory Park with shady and cozy alleys. We knew that Mikhail Nikolaevich’s daughter Irina had come to Orlik, who specifically decided to visit the memorable places of her small homeland.

The foresters liked it. We left Khoito-Gol a day earlier than Mikhail and Ulyana. We parted like old friends. However, circumstances were such that we met again.

On the second day we approached the Hadarus River, the level of which had noticeably increased after the rains in the mountains. Covered in white breakers and foam, the river blocked our path. While Stanislav and I were discussing how we would cross the river, Mikhail and Ulyana rode up on horses. We are very lucky.

On horseback we easily crossed the rapid mountain stream. Having thanked our friends for their help, we continued on our way, planning to reach the Shasnur airfield, and Mikhail and Ulyana would be at home today. Photographs remind us of these meetings. I remember the meeting with the head of the Sayan somonal administration Oleg Ivanov.

From the first minutes he gives the impression of a businesslike, energetic, active and sociable person. But first, a few words about the village of Sayany, where we met Oleg Alekseevich. The village is located on the high bank of the Oka. The traveler’s eyes are pleasing to the wide streets, modern manor-type houses, the original building of a sports hall, a boarding school and others.

Many houses have silver satellite dishes. The streets are quite clean, cozy and even a little festive. After all, the holiday is coming soon — Surkharban. Oleg Alekseevich, as a hospitable host, invited us to his home.

Even with a quick glance at the spacious estate with a full set of outbuildings, one could see that a real strong owner lived here. In the morning he was already in a hurry to the regional center and kindly offered to give us a ride to the bus station. Interestingly, while we were driving through the streets of the village, he stopped the car several times to talk with one or another fellow villager. These were short business meetings.

He probably developed this “on-site” style of work when he was the chairman of the collective farm. At the same time, we thought that the villagers made the right choice by electing Oleg Ivanov as head of the somonial administration. The established way of life and the new trends of our time are surprisingly intertwined in the life of the area. From time immemorial, Okino people lived by livestock farming and hunting.

And today it occupies one of the main places in people’s work activities. But at the same time, new opportunities have opened up. One of the priority areas can be considered the development of tourism, which should be considered as a branch of the economy. The administration of the Okinsky district rightly considers tourism to be a promising business.

Therefore, a special tourism department has been created and operates here, headed by Viktor Innokentyevich Litvintsev. Unfortunately, we were unable to meet him. From a conversation with one of the department’s employees, Sasha Angarkhaev, we learned that the Okinsky district took part in the republican exhibition-fair “Tourism and Recreation in Buryatia,” held in Ulan-Ude in May. A group of tourism committee specialists who visited the area carried out work to inventory tourism resources, identify investment projects and provide methodological assistance in organizing tourism activities.

Let’s hope that the day is not far when the region’s economy will grow with tourism. But still, the main wealth was and is the people living on this beautiful land. This is where I started my story and this is where I will try to end it. I hope that in a short time we understood the most important thing: the presence of an excellent highway that connected the area with the “mainland”, the appearance of cool SUVs that replaced the legendary UAZs, and satellite communication “dishes” on houses did not diminish the cordiality and hospitality of the Okino residents.

How can one not tell about an incident that undoubtedly touched our souls and hearts. We left Orlik by minibus directly to Ulan-Ude. We arrived in the city in the morning. City transport was not yet working, and the driver Alexey (I don’t know his last name) drove each of us to the threshold of our own home.

And this after he had been driving continuously for twelve hours. On behalf of all passengers, I would like to thank Alexey for his high professionalism, sensitivity and integrity. It’s wonderful that Okino residents, despite the changes in life, remain hospitable and friendly. Thus ended our journey to the land of mountain peaks and amazing people.